[48] The incredibly clever “Bowley Lock”: Canada’s newest and coolest Lock! (Now Available)

NOW AVAILABLE! LINK TO STORE: http://www.bowleylockcompany.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html
-Basic Overview: @1:34
-Mechanical operation diagrams: @5:18
-Picking Discussion: @7:42
-Bumping Discussion: @11:25
-Key Strength Test: @14:35
-How to get one: @17:15

Here’s a new lock that really blew me away! The idea and engineering are really fantastic!

As far as I know it is the most bad-ass lock ever to come from Canada and it has some very clever security features to stop anyone from picking or bumping it.




E-Bay Store:




Lockpickleif says:

First off, amazing lock. Second, amazing explanation and diagrams. Third, my master plan, Muaahahahaha……. Take original key, cut off tension nib, drill tiny hole down the shaft where tension nib was and make the hole square, insert spring and new tension bar that sticks out farther than needed, customize bitting to a bump style key. Now when the key goes in you are able to pull the key back while retaining tension via the new spring actuated tension nib also giving you a self resetting bump key!? Or am I crazy? What do you think?

iHawkFFXIV says:

Know this is old so this probably may have been suggested:

I think a two piece pick shaped like a key with a piece that pushes the tension pin and then another that slides back and forth to rake the pins would be an option but doubtful.

wwwtotalitaerde says:

Make an x-ray of the lock (if necessary a backscatter x-ray) and cut a key.

Narcisse CR says:

You could use a tool similar to the ones used for disc detainers locks. With a tension tool and a part that can slide independently to rake/pick on top of that tension tool.

John P. Weiksnar says:

17:52: “It’s going to really open the door.” . . . #yukyukyuk

ghost troLL says:

awesome lock

Dayum Craig says:

sounds pretty much unpickable

Gen15 says:

What if you lose the key(s)? Good luck having a locksmith open your door. You’ll just have to cut the door out.

metamorphicorder says:

your explanation is a little off. the key doesn’t thread, it just fits into a slot in the stationary inner cylinder then it os also in a slot in the rotating cylinder , you turn the key, then you have to set it in the tension notch by pushing the key forward. this also put the key in the right position to drop the pins. the outer cylinder is not sprung, its just freewheeling. so if you use a tool to rotate that, you can get access theoretically to the pins and tension notch. it will take a new set of tools to do this, you will have to spp this, i dont think you can rake this or bump it, so it would be really hard to pick, but i dont think impossible.

Thomas M. Jones says:

lockman pretty good

Marc-Alexandre Boéchat says:

Interesting lock, video too slow for my taste.

frenchxxxtoast says:

what material is it made of

roy childs says:

How sturdy are those keys?

Kris Shanahan says:

do you rate bump keys or are you a “pure picker?

NetRolller3D says:

15:15 for some ABUSe.

NetRolller3D says:

It’s an, um, _impressive_ lock. If you know what I mean.

Brian West says:

the other thing i am curious about, is it one that has another weak point, where it can be physically attacked

arewhyinoh says:

OK so 2 things, creating the tension key without slotting so that you can release the pins. The same portal the slots use to get up to the pins is what you have to create a pick to fit, which means it has to follow the diameter of the inner tube around the outside. Once you’ve got tension and the pins are dropped it’s just a matter of a severely curved tool to set all the pins under tension.

T.C. McQueen says:

I think I figured out how to pick this lock. You use the same key design but instead of your key being solid you “Hollow out” the center bore of the key but not all the way to the tip. (that part needs to stay solid for the tension trigger.) Then you make a sleeve to to go over a smaller tube (the section where the teeth are cut on the key.) Now my idea is there’s a continuous channel all the way through the center of the key, down the shaft, up through the 90 degree turn and then also back down the tooth area of the key (which is just a smaller diameter square tube). Over this square tube you slide on “Bump Sleeve” to which the spring attaches to the far end (thus maintaining back tension on the sleeve.) Now on the back end of your key you put a small Air bladder. Now when you insert the key, turn the key, push in the nose of the tension trigger on the key your now ready to ‘Bump” the air bladder on the back. Now like a Trombone the air from the bladder your hitting will shoot air down the passageway of the key, up and around the end of the key and then down to the sleeve which will shoot the pins up and hopefully clear the sheer line. Note: If you take a stock key, then drill from the back of the key all the way to the 90 degree at the end (but not out the end) and then drill up from the bottom through the transition piece (but not out the end again) and then from the far end of the tooth section you drill the other way till you complete the full airway all the way around. You then solder up the hole you drilled for the transition piece. Now you’ve completed the passageway. Then you insert the spring into the sleeve fastening it over the outer end sleeve and solder shut the sleeve (thus closing up the other end of the passageway to make it air tight once installed. Now last you need to insert the sleeve with the spring in such a way that the open end of the spring grabs in the passage way in such a manner to maintain back tension on the outer sleeve (always pulling the sleeve back onto the inner key tube.) Thus an air driven bump key. I think my idea is sound and it should defeat this lock.

CP44 says:

Geahk Burchill had a good idea about separating the tension and rake parts. What occurred to me is that your reasons for it being near-impossible to pick featured old tools and then having tools that resemble the key, in original its dimensions, to each handle a single part of the attack… the intended key is a limitation to overcome instead of a standard to keep. My first thought is to have a tool with 90 degree bends to go straight for the tension area while only taking a tiny bit of the key hole (maybe at the bottom). Using the diagram at 6:42, the tension tool would take the place of the bottom and right parts of the key, as thin as possible while remaining effective. That would allow the remaining space of the normal key path for use by other pick tools that someone may find useful (which may include a bent-over rake tool, an appropriate (shorter) bump key, a pipe cleaner, whatever). I’m pitching ideas, but I’m out of my element — I don’t really pick locks or do well at genius puzzles, so what actually works may be the opposite of my first guess : P

thomas higgins says:

can anyone point me to where i can buy these?

Orly B says:

Great lock design. Great presentation too. Two thumbs up to the lock designer and to you sir.

Ryan Rath says:

Well since the elegant solutions have already been covered, I have two thoughts.

First, I could not help but notice that as you inserted the key it sounded like that cheap, hollow pot metal that Kwikset and others use in those cheap residential locks. So, since that is an absolutely massive keyway, get a hunk of solid steel shaped like the key (without that cutout in the middle) insert it all the way, use a set of pliers for some leverage and twist that sucker in the opposite direction of the door frame and it would bring the tailpiece with it and unlock the deadbolt. Think along the lines of the same weakness as the European Cylinders. (obviously some damage but relatively quiet…) anyone willing to test my theory? haha let me know if you give it a shot, or have the manufacture try it… stand behind their product and all.

Second and the more scary (to me). Look at the key bitting, there are a total of 5 pin chambers and based on how skinny the pice of metal they left for bitting, there cant be more than 4 different positions or key pins, 5 max. So just doing some easy math, say there are only 4 possible positions for each pin stack 5^4= 625 possible different key combinations, best case scenario (5 possible key pin positions per chamber) 5^5= 3,125… So, if these locks become too proliferated, the chances of my key working in your lock are far greater than even some of the cheapest POS locks on the market now. That is even giving them the benefit of the doubt that they manufacture these within strict tolerances… so you do some fancy measuring and come up with some averages… i would be willing to be you could get a set of tryout keys… again this all hinges on manufacturing quality.

Would love to hear any feedback or if yall think im way off track with this line of thought

Alan Ball says:

Very interesting, I’m thinking a key with a wire threaded through it similar to the attack attempt against the medeco. Definitely would require a new kind of pick. Or a tensioner similar to the key but with a slot drilled through the rod of the key.

Will Flinn says:

that lock is no joke

Mark England says:

I don’t see why this key could not be impressioned? You would have to have a blank fabricated out of softer metal but it should be possible.

Atrax R says:

I can already see that key snagging onto everything in your pocket…

Able Lock says:

I do like the concept of this lock. But I just wonder what it would take for Recombinate in it and if you would need special equipment to cut the keys and if you can get the key blanks to do so. Maybe you could do a video on that.

Cake Flirt says:

Could you break the key if you had the bitting in the vise and twisted the little weak point between the shank and the bitting?

Jamaal Rahmeen says:

EXCELLENT explanation.

masterzedd4 says:

This loos like a very secure lock to non destructive methods. how does it hold up to slightly destructive methods, such as bypasses or removal of the front plate with a drill?

ExStatic Bass says:

The only possible problem with this lock is the durability of the key. How well do those hold up against impatient people? It seems a little flimsy to me. Don’t get me wrong. It is a brilliant design. The durability of the key seems a little lacking to me.

Yuppi says:

How about the hook type of picking tool for manipulating the pins, the tip has kind of a similar spring system and telescopic feature than the pins that the tension stays and the tip pushes the end even if you move it out of the tension activator? I don’t know if there’s actually tools that can feature that in the space given but that’s my idea.

Chris Beindorf says:

For the bump key, you make a two piece key, and for the pick tool, you make the tool as you described but you cut a slot along the length of the tool to allow access with your picks.

Nathan Zeligman says:

you could make the pick fit within the tension tool, like a cylinder within a tube, so that the pick is independently free floating from the front tension bit. you could apply tension to the lock and bump the pins to pick it, but space would be extremely limited.

gramahL says:

how do the pins get pushed up into the over-set position when the lock is locked? what pushes them up?

Jeffrey Black says:

If I understand the mechanism correctly, you aren’t blocking yourself. You need a bit which can go around the cylinder.

Another option might be a tensioning bit a bit more advanced (possibly spring loaded a bit, or capable of turning independently). Get that bit in, apply tension and keep turning allowing the pins to drop to the sheer line.

Ricky Hall says:

Looking at this lock got me thinking, wouldn’t it be set up perfectly for simply drilling out the inner tube? The inner tube must be attached to the face of the lock, therefore if you were to use a large bit and begin drilling into the keyway, at some point, the inner tube would detach. Then, fashion a deep tensioning tool and pick like normal.

Zoltán Misley says:

What about foiling?
I really don’t see any kind of problem with doing that.

FromRussiaWithLove says:

I would suppose it’s possible to defeat a Bowley lock but it would be much more difficult, time consuming, and dependent on special tools or equipment than a normal lock would be. You would need to somehow copy the design of that odd looking key with the missing slot in the middle. Maybe if your handmade some sort of similar shaped instrument with springs pushing up against individual pieces of metal, it would work, but it would take a lot of machining and specific attention.

Doug Brown says:

is the bolt hardened? needing new lock for my house

Forbidden User says:

I wonder how long until the key itself fails being there only a small little piece of metal connecting the top and bottom halves of the key together.. It seems like it would very easily get caught on stuff in your pockets and possibly get bent or while sitting down etc. Would be interesting to see how long it stands up to abuse and still remains usable.

xFrOsTeDGaMeRx says:

make a silicone mold and make yourself a key

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